Monday, January 7, 2013

Vietnam Journal 01.07.11

8:58  At Noi Bai Airport waiting for our flight to HCMC and then home.  Ride out from Ha Noi was pretty quick and check in crowds minimal.  On the ride out Maggie corrected my memory of Ho Chi Minh's lying-on-display suit.  I recalled it as pale, no doubt from the memory of his white jacket on display at the museum.  That display includes his sandals made from tire treads and inner tubes, his "lunch box" and helmet.  It is all so very simple.  It was that simplicity combined with discipline and determination that won Vietnam's independence and reunification.  Just as American simplicity defeated the far more sophisticated and powerful British forces in the 18th century, so too did Vietnamese simplicity outlast American power 200 years later.

16:11  Seated on Eva Air flight 396 from HCMC to Taipei.  Our flight down from Ha Noi was short and easy.  Left us plenty of time to make our connection.  In a few minutes we will leave Vietnam after 25 days here.  I'm sad to see the trip end but also very much ready to get home.  I leave Vietnam with many fond memories and a strong desire to return.  So very different from last time.

16:39  Up, up and away!  Heading for Taipei now and into the coming night.  It's 1:40 am Friday morning in Olympia now which means another 16 hours in transit--lots of time to think and reflect on this adventure.  I arrived in Vietnam three and a half weeks ago a little uneasy and apprehensive about the trip--not afraid and depressed like in 1970--and it all worked out fine.  We pulled off an extended, complicated trip in a very foreign country and, most importantly, changed my whole perception of Vietnam.  It went from war, fear and destruction to peace and, if not prosperity, certainly progress.  I spent over three weeks not only surrounded by Vietnamese but depending on them.  They showed me great friendship and hostility.  A few took advantage of me but no more so than would many of my fellow countrymen if they had the same opportunity.

The best part was meeting the students in my classes at Da Nang University.  They were keen to learn despite their shyness and very positive about life and the opportunities available to them.  In many respects they are like kids everywhere which re-affirms my belief in the oneness of the human species.

This trip has altered one of my fundamental memories of Vietnam.  For the first time in 40 years I did not experience December-January as a replay of those months in 1970-71.  This year I focused on the run-up to this trip or the trip itself once in-country.  I think that future years will see me replaying this experience along with the orginal. 

06:16  Now it's January 8 Saturday in Vietnam.  We're about two hours out from touchdown in Seattle where it's still Friday the 7th.  I am somewhere suspended in time.  The next hurdle on this trip will be getting through US Immigration and Border Patrol, a group about which I am not at all fond.  I recall being apprehensive passing through immigration in Vietnam.  The officer at my station had the hard look that I associate with the North Vietnamese Army.  As it turned out, he just checked my documents and stamped me in.  That was the first of many encounters that made this visit to Vietnam so much different from my last.  It's ironic that I view my own country's agents with the same apprehension I felt for my former adversaries.  Perhaps I will be pleasantly surprised at this border crossing as well.

18:26 PST Friday, January 7, Sea-Tac Airport:  I may never get the chance to see how friendly and/or courteous US immigration officers will be.  Their computers shut down about a third of the way through processing our planeload of passengers.  So we are all waiting, waiting, waiting.  From this vantage point, not much is happening.  Maybe someone somewhere is working frantically (well, just working) to fix the problem.  A guy just walked by with an officer, saying he was here to fix the computers.  There is also a rumor that the system is down nationwide.  Could be a long night.

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